When is a fried egg not an egg?

Ah, the farmers' market! Fresh local peaches, tomatoes, corn, tons of produce! But a vegan fried egg wasn't on my bingo card. Of course I had to try it.

Now, to clarify, pastured hens’ eggs stuffed into hefty burritos are a standard feature at the St. Matthews Farmers Market and many more of the metro’s two dozen-plus farmers’ markets.

Three VegKentucky vegan fried eggs sizzle on the flattop grill, almost ready to serve.

But a vegan fried egg, sunnyside up with a bright yellow yolk looking up at us from its shiny white nest, all of it based entirely on plants without an animal-sourced molecule in sight? How can such a thing even be?

Scrambled vegan eggs are pretty simple, from home-built tofu scramble to the widely available brand Just Egg. But it turns out that vegan fried eggs really are a thing, too.

They’re available in pre-made form from companies with names like Be Leaf and Yo Egg. There are also lots of do-it-yourself recipes that, if not quick and easy, are at least doable by home cooks and restaurant chefs.

Methods vary, but they typically start with a protein source like silken tofu, chickpea aquafaba, or pea protein to create the white; put together a mix of texture and color ingredients like turmeric, cornstarch, plant milk or vegan yogurt, and other creative options to add a “yolk” on top; and finish with a Himalayan black salt called Kala Namak that adds a sulfury, eggy flavor.

It should come as no surprise to discover that this farmers’ market effort comes from Chef Kristina Addington, longtime plant-based chef and owner of V-Grits, the beloved vegan food truck-turned-restaurant that sadly closed its last incarnation at Logan Street Market last year.

Addington is now executive director of VegKentucky, a nonprofit organization “dedicated to inspiring and empowering individuals to embrace the benefits of plant-based living.”

VegKentucky’s website adds, “As a nonprofit organization, our mission is to promote personal wellness, environmental sustainability, and compassion for animals by making plant-based options accessible and appealing to everyone in Kentucky.”

To learn more about VegKentucky, its purpose and goals, and programs like workshops and ready-to-eat meals, visit the organization’s website at VegKentucky.org

One very good way to achieve that goal, it seems, is to go to farmers’ markets and other public events offering tasty plant-based treats that look a lot like hot, juicy, drippy egg, cheese, and sausage muffins and tasty burritos (both $9), made without any animals being harmed.

But one question has to be asked: How does it taste?